My head still aches and I am wondering if today is a good day to stay in bed. But the day outside is brilliant and clear and warm and there is not a cloud in sight. If ever I was going to go to EBC, today is the day. After a bowl of hot over-powdered custard we set off across the flat, past the frozen over lakes and head up the rocky snow covered path towards EBC. My headache has eased and after 1.5hours the trak has flattened and runs along the top of a ridge.
We are surrounded by snow and animal footprints from the nights escapades. It glistens in the sunlight and the snow covered mountains are calm. Apart from a slight breeze, the world is still. Every now and then we hear an avalanche out of sight and the ice cracks in the distance somewhere from the warmth of the day. As we end the ridge down into the valley, we see Everest Base Camp. There are few people left at EBC as the season is over and it displays only a half a dozen yellow and blue tents. I decide not to go any further partly because of my headache but secondly to leave the charm. Everything is in perspective here. I can see the camp and the little people going about their business next to the masive snow drift (which gives us an avalanche), next to the rocky debris from the mountain they call popcorn, and in the shadow of Everest which has the only ominous cloud circling the very peak. Any closer and I would lose this picture. It is amazing!
Brett and Tendi walk a little further on to the gateway of EBC whilst Lucky and I sit and take in the splendour. The world is at peace here. I start to head backto the lodge slowly stopping frequently to take photos and absorb the scenery. The boys catch up to us after 30mins and we pose for a group photo. After this my head splits in two again and I cannot walk very fast at all. I fall over once from the pain and misbalance on a rock as my brain bounces around in my head. As soon as we reach the lodge I visit the bathroom and after three days of waiting, success. And my headache is gone!
I go to the dining room and have a spam and cheese toasted (well warmed) sandwich with tomato soup. When I come out Brett is being sick again on the rocks. He does not like physical exersion at altitude and he is probably starving as he only ever eats half his breakfast. He goes in to attempt a sherpa stew.
The sun is so hot right now that nearly everyone is outside enjoying the sunshine. The air is still and you can hear the ravens (which are numerous) fight over some morsel of food. Tomorrow we head back the way we came but will stay in the alternate loop of villages for a change of scenery. After trekkin guphill over 5300m, it seems as if we will be going all downhill. Whilst this is true there are so many hills here, what goes down always goes up!. After looking at my calf muscles it will be nice to balance out my manly looking legs.