On our way down the hill we pass dozens of extended families heading the Tengboche to see the Lama. Today day is the celebration of the half moon and they are heading to be blessed by the Lama. People walk for days to particpate in this ritual.
The climb up the Khumjung is hell! and nearly kills me. A 300m incline over less than 1km. I have developed a bad cough I think from the over exersion. Apparently this is common and is called the Khumbu Cough. We arrive in Khumjung and are staying at a near new lodge owned by a Nepalese lady who married an Italian. You can tell the European influence and this is now the best lodge we have stayed in. Even the toilet looks five stars.
After lunch we visit another monastery, Khumjung Gompa, home of the infamous Yeti scalp. I am intrigued by the yeti. It’s weird cone shaped head and animal type hair, black-red in colour. They are supposed to live only above 5000m and are rarely seen but they leave plenty of footprints to keep the legend alive. I think the story has credit. This scalp came into being as a parting gift between villages in dispute over a festival. After a disagreement of where to hold this festival Thame gave Khunde amd Khumjung this parting gift and it was taken as an insult. They kicked it all the way back to the village. After realising international interest they put it in a glass case and now it makes the monastery money. Blind luck perhaps?
Khumjung is a fantastic place. I could live here. We visit the school on the way back to the lodge and watch the kids at play. The valley is filled with laughter and squeals. The prayer wall is still covered in snow from a few days ago and the world is still yet again.