Namche to Phakding

18.11.09 – Today I have had enough! My cough is worse and I have been convulse-coughing so much that I think I am starting to develop a six pack. I have no energy and it hurts to move. I am not a happy camper, and after five hours we finally reach our night stop in Phakding. Thank Buddha! The best thing about our room is not only the ensuite but the fact that it has a free hot shower in it with a Western toilet. I love solar! It is the first hot shower we have had in two weeks – in fact it is the ONLY shower we have had in two weeks. And I enjoyed every bit of it – even washed my hair.

Thoughts crossed my mind about pushing a porter over the edge because they don’t pay attention to where they are walking and it was frustrating to play that direction dance with a lot of them. I’ll go this way; no you go that way; ok I’ll go this way, no you go… That and my heightened sense of smell was killing me being in two feet from any of them. No one bathes at altitude and whilst I understand that I don’t recall any foreigners smelling this bad (except for a big fat American man – he was memorable).

I was ready to throw in the towel today but now that I am not only warm but clean I think that I can manage one last day… I wonder how much a pony costs from here to Lukla?

FYI – a pony costs US$400. Yikes!

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